Travel

Around Amritsar

City: Amritsar, India
Weather: 98°, sunny
Site: Walking around, Fort
Activity: Shopping

 

Amritsar had a very different feel. Especially coming from the mountain town of Shimla. It is dry, dusty, and very hot. It also has almost this gangster Punjabi feel, but people seemed more respectful than those in the touristy Golden Triangle area. After saying all that thought, Alex and I accidentally snuck into the old fort that was under repair and the guard was NOT happy. There were no signs, no closed doors. But that’s India for you… You don’t know what’s allowed and not allowed until you do it and get yelled at. Happened almost every day.

Punjab Police bus in Amritsar, India
Punjab Police bus in Amritsar, India

 

burlap sacks falling over each other in Amritsar, India
burlap sacks falling over each other in Amritsar, India

 

Alexander climbing stairs in Amritsar, India
Alexander climbing stairs in Amritsar, India

 

Abandoned fort in Amritsar, India
Abandoned fort in Amritsar, India

 

mule and his heavy load of wood in Amritsar, India
mule and his heavy load of wood in Amritsar, India

 

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Monkey Statue?

City: Shimla, India
Weather: 77°, foggy
Site: Jakhu Temple
Activity: Yes that statue is new

Up a pretty strenuous climb through dense fog, we found this Hindu temple known more as “monkey temple”. The massive orange monkey statue is only 3 years old and the temple itself wasn’t much to see. Plus everything was surrounded by fencing and locks to keep the mischievous monkeys out. Alex couldn’t even wear his glasses because the big males kept jumping at him to steal them.

Giant orange monkey statue at Jakhu Temple in Shimla, India
Giant orange monkey statue at Jakhu Temple in Shimla, India

 

Entrance and monkey at Jakhu Temple in Shimla, India
Entrance and monkey at Jakhu Temple in Shimla, India

 

Alexander and his orange umbrella at Jakhu Temple

 

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Around Agra – not Taj…

City: Agra, India
Weather: 98°, sunny
Site: Agra Fort, Daulah, Chini Ka Rauza
Activity: Tuk tuk-ing around

We were only in Agra for 24 hours, but there were plenty of other amazing things to see besides the Taj Mahal. A hired Tuk Tuk whipped us around to the major sites in the afternoon.

stone inlay patterns at Daulah in Agra, India
stone inlay patterns at Daulah in Agra, India

 

inlay in red sandstone at Daulah in Agra, India
inlay in red sandstone at Daulah in Agra, India

 

glazed tile at Chini Ka Rauza in Agra, India
glazed tile at Chini Ka Rauza in Agra, India

 

cusp arches at Agra Fort in Agra, India
cusp arches at Agra Fort in Agra, India

 

Indian woman in sari from above

 

the gardens at Agra Fort in Agra, India
the gardens at Agra Fort in Agra, India

 

 

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In the Shadow of Taj

City: Agra, India
Weather: 93°, sunny
Site: Kachhpura Village
Activity: Snooping, people watching

 

Across the river from the Taj Mahal is the garden Mehtab Bagh. The myth is that the black Taj Mahal would be built here to mirror the Taj. This site is also wher Kachhoura village is. It’s a small farmer’s village that is so quaint, we were greeted by a lone toddler pooping on the road as we entered.

man and his cart in Kachhpura. Agra, India
man and his cart in Kachhpura. Agra, India

 

little boy in front of door in Kachhpura, India
little boy in front of door in Kachhpura, India

 

amazing colors and textures in Kachhpura, India

 

cute baby cow in the village of Kachhpura, India

 

Indian boys swim along side Taj Mahal
Indian boys swim along side Taj Mahal

 

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Advanced Study

City: Shimla, India
Weather: 75°, foggy
Site: Indian Institute of Advanced Studies
Activity: Lame tour

 

Being in Shimla was like living in a cloud. Very mystical and very moist… This building from the 19th cent is used now for advanced academic study. What we could see through the fog was very beautiful.

Institute of Advanced Study in Shimla, India
Institute of Advanced Study in Shimla, India

 

Bright green moss at Institute of Advanced Study in Shimla, India

 

Beautiful spiral staircase at Institute of Advanced Study in Shimla, India

 

Look at that tree. Institute of Advanced Study in Shimla, India

 

Dense fogs in the garden at Institute of Advanced Study in Shimla, India

 

Alexander posing at Institute of Advanced Study in Shimla, India

 

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Rock Garden

City: Chandigarh, India
Weather: 98°, sunny
Site: Rock Garden
Activity: Swinging, waterfalls, junk

 

This was right outside the Capitol complex. Initially, the artist created the space for himself in his free time. He collected building materials, pots, and rocks from old Chandigarh while it was being torn down to create the organized city that exists today.

Toilet fittings? At the Rock garden in Chandigarh, India

 

Indian pots at the Rock garden in Chandigarh, India

 

At the Rock garden in Chandigarh, India

 

Concrete tufts at the Rock garden in Chandigarh, India

 

 

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Schools

City: Chandigah, India
Weather: 99°, sunny
Site: Panjab University, School of Architecture
Activity: Hunting for Le Corbusier buildings

 

Since most of Chandigarh was designed by Corb, it only makes sense that the universitys were as well. We drew a lot of attention walking around the campus (only white people) but it was nice to see the buildings being actively used. Just wish I could have gone to university in such amazing spaces.

Panjab University student center. Built under the supervision of Le Corbusier.
Panjab University student center. Built under the supervision of Le Corbusier.

 

Lecture hall at Panjab University. Truth is God.
Lecture hall at Panjab University. Truth is God.

 

 

 

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Assembly Hall

City: Chandigarh, India
Weather: 98°, sunny
Site: Capitol Complex
Activity: Tour with police officer

 

Us in front of Le Corbusier's mural gate at the Assembly Hall in Chandigarh, India.
Us in front of Le Corbusier’s mural gate at the Assembly Hall in Chandigarh, India.

 

Le Corbusier's Assembly Hall in Chandigarh, India. They are repairing for UNESCO review.
Le Corbusier’s Assembly Hall in Chandigarh, India. They are repairing for UNESCO review.

 

Le Corbusier's Assembly Hall in Chandigarh, India seen from The Secretariat.
Le Corbusier’s Assembly Hall in Chandigarh, India seen from The Secretariat.

 

Le Corbusier’s mural gate at The Assembly Hall in Chandigarh, India.

 

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Toy Train through Himalayas (Goin Up)

City: Kalka to Shimla, India
Weather: 72°, sunny
Site: Toy Train through Himalayas
Activity: Trying not to nap

 

On our ride up to the mountain/resort town of Shimla we took a “rail motor car”. Meaning it was a single car train, acting as its own motor. So we got the front AND the view of the UNESCO stamped railway. The tracks are spaced only 30″ apart and the stations along the way are like stepping back in time.

Clear top motor car Toy Train from Kalka to Shimla. A UNESCO site!
Clear top motor car Toy Train from Kalka to Shimla. A UNESCO site!

 

Misty morning trees on the ride from Kalka to Shimla by toy train.
Misty morning trees on the ride from Kalka to Shimla by toy train.

 

Himalayan town seen from toy train to Shimla.
Himalayan town seen from toy train to Shimla.

 

Choo Choo!

 

Toy Train tunnel. There is only one track for both trains going up and going down.

 

Shoghi station on the way from Kalka to Shimla via toy train.
Shoghi station on the way from Kalka to Shimla via toy train.

 

Train conductor passing off ring to station worker. It keeps up with who is on which portion of the train tracks.
Train conductor passing off ring to station worker. It keeps up with who is on which portion of the train tracks.

 

Misty mountains in the morning. Himalayan Mountains between Kalka and Shimla.
Misty mountains in the morning. Himalayan Mountains between Kalka and Shimla.

 

That green! View from train.
That green! View from train.

 

Group of Indian school girls waiting on the platform for their train. Field trip?
Group of Indian school girls in uniform waiting on the platform for their train. Field trip?

 

"Kalka - Shimla - Kalka" view of our toy train from the back.
“Kalka – Shimla – Kalka” view of our toy train from the back.

 

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Secretariat

City: Chandigarh, India
Weather: 98°, sunny
Site: Capitol Complex
Activity: Tour with police officer

 

Le Corbusier's Secretariat. View of the ramp core from the outside.
Le Corbusier’s Secretariat. View of the ramp core from the outside.

 

The Secretariat's ramp core. Amazing use of primary color by Le Corbusier as always.
The Secretariat’s ramp core. Amazing use of primary color by Le Corbusier as always.

 

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High Court

City: Chandigarh, India
Weather: 98°, sunny
Site: Capitol Complex
Activity: Tour with police officer

 

The tourist police offer a free tour through Le Corbusier’s amazing Capitol complex. Problem is, they practically run you through the buildings. Very frustrating. So we did the exact same tour, two days in a row…

Le Corbusier's beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.
Le Corbusier’s beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.

 

Le Corbusier's beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.
Le Corbusier’s beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.

 

Le Corbusier's beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.
Le Corbusier’s beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.

 

Le Corbusier's beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.
Le Corbusier’s beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.

 

Le Corbusier's beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.
Shadows at Le Corbusier’s beautiful High Court building in Chandigarh, India.

 

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Beatles Ashram

City: Rishikesh, India
Weather: 89°, sunny
Site: Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s Ashram
Activity: Sneaking Around

 

We considered skipping this site all together because we were worried it would be a touristy waste of time. We could not have been more wrong. It Samsung us there and we had to be a bit clever to get in. The two storey moss covered meditation huts were really nice and I can see why The Beatles fell in love with the place.

Living spaces at the Beatle's Ashram in Rishikesh, India. Love the floating stairs and cusp arches.
Living spaces at the Beatles Ashram in Rishikesh, India. Love the floating stairs and cusp arches.

 

View to the entrance of the Beatle's Ashram in Rishikesh, India.
View to the entrance of the Beatles Ashram in Rishikesh, India.

 

The Beatles Ashram in Rishikesh, India.
The Beatles Ashram in Rishikesh, India.

 

Alexander and one of the meditation pods at the Beatles Ashram.
Alexander and one of the meditation pods at the Beatles Ashram.

 

Snail Portrait

 

Cantilevered stairs in the meditation pod.
Cantilevered stairs in the meditation pod.

 

There were about a dozen of these meditation pods at the Beatles Ashram.

 

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Big Birds

City: Shimla, India
Weather: 75°, sunny
Site: Bird reserve
Activity: Trying not to step on pretty chickens
I assumed this place would be filled with small, flighty, song birds but I was very wrong. The peacock is the national bird of India and they had a glorious one that showed off to us. But besides him, it was a typical run-down Indian attraction. Lots of chicken bird.
Peacock at a bird reserve in Shimla, India.
Peacock at a bird reserve in Shimla, India.

 

Amazing neon colors in a peacock feather.
Amazing neon colors in a peacock feather.

 

Some sort of colorful chicken thing in Shimla, India.
Some sort of colorful chicken thing in Shimla, India.

 

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Corb

City: Chandigarh, India
Weather: 98°, sunny
Site: Capitol Complex
Activity: Tour with police officer
Open Hand Monument, Sun Dial, and louver study
Le Corbusier's full size mock up to study wind and shadow. Still remains on the capitol complex.
Le Corbusier’s full size mock up to study wind and shadow. Still remains on the capitol complex.

 

Le Corbusier's Open Hand Monument with assembly space.
Le Corbusier’s Open Hand Monument with assembly space.

 

Le Corbusier's speech platform and seating in front of the Open Hand Monument. Chandigarh, India
Le Corbusier’s speech platform and seating in front of the Open Hand Monument. Chandigarh, India

 

Sun Dial at the Capitol Complex under repair before UNESCO comes to review.
Sun Dial at the Capitol Complex under repair before UNESCO comes to review.

 

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Toy Train (going down)

City: Shimla to Kalka, India
Weather: 68°, sunny
Site: Toy Train through Himalayas
Activity: Playing with monkey, enjoying the scenery

On the he return journey down from Shimla, we opted for the multi car, no class passenger train. It cost us less than a dollar each. That monkey climbed aboard at the station hunting for food. It was more than a bit domesticated so it was the first and only monkey on this trip that let us pet it. I was in love, obviously. The trip took 3 extra hours because it stopped at every single station… But it was worth it!

UNESCO protected Toy Train from Shimla to Kalka. Beautiful bridges and tunnels along the way.
UNESCO protected Toy Train from Shimla to Kalka. Beautiful bridges and tunnels along the way.

 

Alex is over the scenary and reading his murder mystery…

 

A semi-domesticated monkey gets on the train every day and takes food. She actually let us pet her and touch her soft, little hands. Shimla, India
A semi-domesticated monkey gets on the train every day and takes food. She actually let us pet her and touch her soft, little hands. Shimla, India

 

View of train station at Shimla, India

 

Man hanging out of the train enjoying the view.

 

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Rishikesh

City: Rishikesh, India
Weather: 85°, sunny
Site: On the Ganges
Activity: Yoga and river ceremonies

 

Best known with westerners as the place where The Beatles found their spirituality, Rishikesh is a holy place located in the mountains on the mighty Ganges River. Seriously, that river is swift. A boy we talked to says he frequently sees bodies floating down after heavy rains. We did yoga on the banks. Very different from Western yoga. It’s calmer, more focused on stretching and meditation.

The temple in the cow photo is 13 storeys. Each floor filled with idols and rituals. I ran after a kid who rang a massive bell in my ear on floor 8.

The swift, mighty Ganges River and people enjoying a Hindu ceremony at sunset.
The swift, mighty Ganges River and people enjoying a Hindu ceremony at sunset.

 

Rishikesh as seen from across the Ganges.

 

Alexander and cow friend crossing the pedestrian bridge. 13 Story Hindu temple in back.

 

Rishikesh, India

 

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Aggressive Monkey Temple

City: Jaipur, India
Weather: 90°, cloudy
Site: Galtaji
Activity: Feeding bananas to monkeys and Alex

 

Before India I loved the idea of owning a pet monkey or just hanging around them. Not anymore. They are gross, aggressive, and really michiveous. Also they poop on this nice temple.

Creepy monkey in front of “Monkey Temple” Jaipur, India.

 

Galtaji or Monkey Temple in Jaipur, India.
Galtaji or Monkey Temple in Jaipur, India.

 

Holy man giving blessings for money…

 

Hindus bathing in the holy waters at Galtaji.

 

A monkey about to attack Alex for the rest of his banana. Those things aren't messing around.
A monkey about to attack Alex for the rest of his banana. Those things aren’t messing around.

 

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Taj Mahal

City: Agra, India
Weather: 85°, sunny
Site: Taj Mahal
Activity: Crying inside

 

It was as beautiful as I had hoped.

Us at one of the reflecting pools outside the Taj Mahal. Absolutely amazing in the morning light.
Us at one of the reflecting pools outside the Taj Mahal. Absolutely amazing in the morning light.

 

The morning sun peaking around the Taj Mahal. Agra, India
The morning sun peaking around the Taj Mahal. Agra, India

 

Alex sitting outside the main mausoleum of the Taj Mahal. Amazing flower carvings in white marble.
Alex sitting outside the main mausoleum of the Taj Mahal. Amazing flower carvings in white marble.

 

The Taj Mahal as seen from one of its flanking red sandstone mosques.
The Taj Mahal as seen from one of its flanking red sandstone mosques.

 

Flower carving in red sandstone at the Taj Mahal.

 

The Taj Mahal. It’s shocking.

 

Posing in front of the great Taj Mahal.

 

The Taj Mahal as seen from the Mehtab Bagh in the evening.
The Taj Mahal as seen from the Mehtab Bagh in the evening. Agra, India

 

The symmetry of the Taj Mahal is perfection.
The symmetry of the Taj Mahal is perfection.

 

Alex in the sunlight at the Taj Mahal.
Alex in the sunlight at the Taj Mahal.

 

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Bros

I'd just like to dedicate this post to groups of Indian bros: no, I will not take “just one picture” with you. Because #1 I don't want you all up in my business, kissing my cheek etc and #2 it is never “just one”. Ever. It is 3 poses with each one of you. That's 30 pics just with your posse. So no. Just no. Keep rocking the washed denim, Mountain Dew, and loud shirts.

 

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Step-Well

City: Jaipur, India
Weather: 92°, sunny
Site: Step-Well
Activity: Walking up and down

 

I've read if you can walk up the same way you walked down, that is good luck. I know I failed that task. Being around all those stairs was as surreal as it looks however.

 

 

 

 

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