We considered skipping this site all together because we were worried it would be a touristy waste of time. We could not have been more wrong. It Samsung us there and we had to be a bit clever to get in. The two storey moss covered meditation huts were really nice and I can see why The Beatles fell in love with the place.

On the he return journey down from Shimla, we opted for the multi car, no class passenger train. It cost us less than a dollar each. That monkey climbed aboard at the station hunting for food. It was more than a bit domesticated so it was the first and only monkey on this trip that let us pet it. I was in love, obviously. The trip took 3 extra hours because it stopped at every single station… But it was worth it!

Best known with westerners as the place where The Beatles found their spirituality, Rishikesh is a holy place located in the mountains on the mighty Ganges River. Seriously, that river is swift. A boy we talked to says he frequently sees bodies floating down after heavy rains. We did yoga on the banks. Very different from Western yoga. It’s calmer, more focused on stretching and meditation.

The temple in the cow photo is 13 storeys. Each floor filled with idols and rituals. I ran after a kid who rang a massive bell in my ear on floor 8.

Before India I loved the idea of owning a pet monkey or just hanging around them. Not anymore. They are gross, aggressive, and really michiveous. Also they poop on this nice temple.

It was as beautiful as I had hoped.

I'd just like to dedicate this post to groups of Indian bros: no, I will not take “just one picture” with you. Because #1 I don't want you all up in my business, kissing my cheek etc and #2 it is never “just one”. Ever. It is 3 poses with each one of you. That's 30 pics just with your posse. So no. Just no. Keep rocking the washed denim, Mountain Dew, and loud shirts.

I've read if you can walk up the same way you walked down, that is good luck. I know I failed that task. Being around all those stairs was as surreal as it looks however.

These Po Mo looking structures were used for accurate time telling. The one in the photos is the largest sum dial in the world. Unfortunately it was cloudy the day we went so shadows were pretty non-existent.

These Po Mo looking structures were used for accurate time telling. The one in the photos is the largest sum dial in the world. Unfortunately it was cloudy the day we went so shadows were pretty non-existent.

Animals. Everywhere. In the streets. In houses. On porches. In trash.

Just like the rest of India, we couldn't tell where we were allowed or not. One second we were on a populated overlook, th next we are climbing around on roofs looking for a ladder down.

We reached this fort via underground passageway from Amber Fort. It felt more military centered and had amazing viewpoints. We spent a lot of time running for shade though (note head scarf).

Three forts are located within 12km of Jaipur. We did them all in one day (which was way too fast) but it was nice seeing how the 3 forts related to each other and imagining the communication between them when they were in use. Amber Fort was the biggest and most beautiful. Tourists pay elephants to take them up. Expensive and the loads those elephants were carrying looked too large… Whole families at a time.

This one room thick building was made for the ladies of the palace to observe street life without being seen, so there are beautiful stone screens at all windows. By this point in the trip we had gotten fed up with requests to take photos of us. Just for a general benchmark. No it will not be “just one” photo!

The forts we have visited continue to amaze me. They are built in layers with dozens of balconies and nooks and passageways. This palace had amazing blue tile. The blue room is a “rain room” intended to teach people of Bikaner what it looks like when it rains… Since it only rains every 6+ years in the desert of Rajasthan.

Beautiful little faces. Most of these were taken because their parents requested it. I sometimes have to hide the camera so that I'm not stuck taking photos all day, but I do love the kids' expressions.

Bikaner was a very charming city after Delhi. Take all the good parts of Delhi: markets, colors, textures, old sites… now leave out: pollution, tourist shops, yelling. That's Bikaner. Camels are the machines behind much of the city.