Of course we pocked the rainiest day while we were in Berlin to go to the zoo, but it was still so worth it. They managed to get rid of the standard fence and use lots of plantings to make it feel more “natural”. When it rained we hopped on in to the aquarium. Loved the jellyfish and these weird jumpy land fish.

I drug Alex on over to the kids petting zoo where we saw my fav: MINI horse. So worth the dirty pellet slobber.

Every Sunday, thousands upon thousands of Berliners and tourists go to Mauer Park for the grungiest, funnest, biggest, foodiest flea market I have ever seen. Bartering is a must, as we consistently go prices cut in half just by asking. A floor length fur coat got down to $45 which was so tempting… If only I could lug around another 20 pounds of mink for the next three months. Obviously I love fur, and it was tempting me around every corner. Instead I held out and bought only a leather sketchbook bag, brass mug, and a twisted silver spoon.

In addition to the amazing market, an amphitheater on the hillside attracted another few thousand to watch street performers and karaoke. We had such a good time swinging, that Alex lost his glasses lens and we didn’t even notice for a few minutes. It was lost forever and he walked around winking at everyone for the next few days.

Our hostel room was themed “giraffe”, hence the decorations.

After seeing slides of this famous building in architecture school for the past three years, I really had high expectations. They were greatly let down. I didn’t find the exhibit or the architecture particularly moving, and considering we are at the heart of the holocaust it doesn’t seem like it would take much to grab ones attention. It does seem to photograph well…

The Louisiana museum of modern art was such an unexpected surprise. We decided to go on a whim, took a 30 minute train out and were so excited to find ourselves in this little town by the water. It was a drizzly Friday, and there were dozens of dainty sail boats out and about.

The museum had a nice exhibition on small scale architecture. Exploring what is a home, a community, a country and how these work in a cellular way.

My favorite part was the permanent sculptures outdoors by the water. Windy paths and long aluminum slides take you from one piece to the next. Most were hidden and it was nice to escape the old people.

Fun house hamster wheel. Alex conquered.

Tivoli park is what Disney World sought to be but failed because of it’s abundance of cheap plastic parts and kitschy rides. Tivoli had such an authenticity to it due to much of the landscaping and buildings originating in —- when it was first opened.

We were the first and only people in most of the lines for a good hour. A dream I’ve always had while waiting in hour long 6 flag lines. The most amazing ride was a little 4 person bomber plane that dive bombed and spun. G forces high enough to black you out. Alex screamed “may day may day” for a good portion of the ride.

I had the most fun in the kiddie fun house. Big oles slides, conveyor belts, spinny things, hamster wheel. So dangerous and would never be in the US. Only the strong survive in Copenhagen.

Tivoli is one of those places that has to be experienced in both the day and night. So of course we came back. Thumbillina the ballet was showing and we rerode the best rides at night.

After the sick break, we hobbled our way to the Danish Design Museum. The fact that it’s free on Wednesday is what got us up and going. Once we got there, I was even more happy it was free… The objects displayed were beautiful, but the museum was a disaster. Poor signage, unfinished rooms, and an obnoxiously loud play in the courtyard. We were happy to escape.

With our hopes slightly beat we walked a couple miles over to Christianhavn, the island community that ounce was know for having its own currency, free lifestyle, and thriving legal drug trade. The first step for us was to conquer this huge spiral tower known for its view of the city. The stairs got so narrow at the top we had to pass awkwardly one at a time. The view was terrifying and amazing as we hung off the sides of the tower.

After our thigh burner, we followed the fairy mural through a park and into the “Green Light District”. Something was in the air, but not what you’d think… Tear gas. About thirty police were scattered and blocking off certain warehouses. There had been a riot where rocks were thrown after a drug bust right before we wandered in. We bought a locally brewed beer and watched a young woman arrested while kicking and screaming. Most of the time while exploring the commune, Alex and I were speechless.

After a hot, muggy night in the dorm, Alex woke up pretty gnarly feeling. I wandered around while he slept in the lobby and found some hopefully stronger than American cold medicine. After medicating and a loooooong nap we tackled the day. Impressive.

We have generally spent the first day in new cities exploring with no particular motive. Yesterday was no different. We took a short walk from our 8 bed hostel to the Rosenborg Castle. We saw the crown jewels and pushy Italian tourists.

From here we meandred our way to lunch and happened to get lucky this time. We found a hidden gem of a cafe where we were served curry herring and capers with two different types of schnapps, both of which were on the house as we are cute Texan tourists. The yummy elderberry schnapps was home made.

After lunch we window shopped and visited with local jewelry and pottery craftsmen. It’s really interesting here how the storefront is both shop and work studio so were able to ge a peek at the process.

We really enjoyed the botanical garden and it’s huge variety of plants and beautiful glass green houses. Here we took some time to play and sketch. After our picnic dinner we ate gelato and wandered some more. Then bedtime with our 6 roommates.

Our “luxury” cruise ferry from Oslo to Copenhagen. Since we are so far north, that the sunset lasted extra long giving us plenty of time to bask in the first direct sunlight we felt in Norway.

We were definitely in the minority being young Americans, but almost felt at home when the steakhouse promised “fresh North American beef”.

Our visit to the Edvard Munch museum was splendid. Unlike the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, “The Scream” was very accesible.

The poem Edvard wrote for it:

One evening I walk along the Hillside Path near
Kristiania – together with two friends. It was a
Time during which Life had ripped open my Soul –
The sun went down – had dipped quickly below the
Horizon – It was as if a Flaming Sword of Blood
cut across the Firmament – The Air turned to
Blood – with cutting Veins of Flame –
The Hillsides became a deep blue – The fjord – cut
in a cold blue – yellow and red Colours – that
shrill, bloody red – on the Road and the Railing.
The faces of my Friends became a garish yellow –
White- I felt a huge Scream – and I really did
hear a huge Scream – The Colours in Nature –
broke the lines in nature – the Lines and Colours
quivered with Movement. These Vibrations of Light
caused not only the Oscillation of my Eyes –
my Ears were also affected and began to vibrate,
so I actually heard a Scream – Then I painted
The Sceam –
E Munch

Oh the Fram. An exciting museum of the ship Fram, and it’s Polar explorations.

Vigeland Sculpture Garden
Beautiful scultpures, but overwelhemed by the formal garden.

The most interesting thing about the Noble Peace Museum (to Kelsey at least) was the kids portion where we took a photo with a cardboard cut-out of Nansen that printed out. So was that cut-out really amazing or the museum utterly boring? You decide.

The Oslo Opera house
A sunny afternoon. The number of people buzzing around a piece of architecture for the sole purpose of viewing it was both exciting and surprising. While jazzy and overbearing, it has quite spectacular qualities. The cleverness of the seamless edge made the building seem to extend off into the sky. The cold, white stone work created a wonderful napping spot in the sun until the attendee asked us to wake up and move out of view of an upcoming shmoozer dinner.

Textured wall called for a portrait.

Or in Alexs case a big furry hat called for a photo portrait.

Exciting underground tunnel with exposed rock.

Beautiful brick buildings everywhere.

O you know. I’m a big deal here too.

We spent most of the day with no particular destination in mind. This led to a minimum of 12 miles of walking. The last 3 of which we spent delirously backtracking (hence the “utfart” joke).

Our hostel on a boat. Gently rocked to sleep to be woken by a big ole spider crawling in my bed.

Stockholm Public Library by Erik Gunnar Asplund

A cheap mimosa to avoid the screaming child and indifferent mother. Only 9 hrs!